January 23, 2021 - Winter camping on the edge of the Tobeatic

Winter Camping is not for everyone, but it's also not as bad as everyone thinks. It's all about the right gear and right attitude. Melanie had never winter camped before, so when I suggested we camp every month in 2021, I was surprised how little convincing it took for her to say yes. I have winter camped a few times before., twice in a hammock, and twice just under a tarp in a sleeping bag. This time however, it was a tent that would be making the trip. Not because it's a warmer option, or easier, but mostly because it's the best option for our 14 year old Husky, Bear.

Cossaboom Point on Sixth Lake was the site for one of two sports camps owned by Earl Cossaboom in the early 1900s. In its time, it was built over the ground on rocks and logs leaving no fountain to speak of today to show of its existence. In fact, the only indication that the camp was ever there, is the massive stone fireplace which still towers from the ground looking over Sixth Lake like a beacon, marking one of the most popular routes to access the Tobeatic Wilderness Area. Normally, this area of Sixth Lake would have only been accessible by canoe, but with years of past logging activity in the area, abandoned logging roads will take you within walking distance of this old sports camp. This was our destination.

Saturday morning we packed our bags, ready to hit the road, but not before one last look at the forecast. Earlier in the week the forecast was for about 6 inches of snow, but lucky for us that had now changed to only an inch or so, however now replaced with the promise of gusty winds and a -17c wind chill. No worries, with a warm sleeping bag packed and a pre built fire place ready to heat our souls, we would be good for the night.

Shortly after picking up the rest of our camping party, Robert and Heather, we had arrived at our entry point, the end of an over grown logging road near Sixth Lake. From here it is quick ten minute walk along a well used trail followed by what was sure to be an eventful bushwhack through the thick Nova Scotia softwoods.

Calm, no wind, and only a few degrees below freezing, perfect weather to hike with 40lbs of food and sleeping gear. As predicted, the beginning of the trip was easy walking, but we would have to keep our eyes pealed for the turn-off to Sixth Lake, for if we missed it, we would be well on our way to another waterway, in the wrong direction. Of course, we missed our turn. After consulting our GPS, and backtracking a few times, we found the old portage, and quickly followed it to sixth lake, where our bushwhacking adventure to Cossaboom Point would begin.

To our surprise, the lake was completely frozen, a sugary dusting of snow covering the glassy smooth ice. This wasn't really expected as the winter so far has not seen an abundance of sub-freezing temperatures. A frozen lake means much easier travel than ducking and turning over and under the twisted thicket we were expecting, but it also brings its own risks. Is the lake really frozen solid? Is it thick enough to support the weight of us and our overstuffed packs? After a quick but thorough inspection of the ice, and another thorough inspection of the woods we would have to tear through otherwise, we decided to walk on the lake, staying close to shore and spread out. Being only ten minutes from a warm truck as a safety net, the decision was pretty easy. We made our way along the shore to our destination just around the first point of land.

The last time I was at this site was the spring of 2019, at the beginning of a nine day canoe trip through the Tobeatic. Since that time there have been several strong wind storms, including Hurricane Dorian, whos affects were still very evident by the multiple large spruce trees laying on the ground in front of the Cossaboom fireplace which were not there only two years earlier. With no patch of land big enough to set up a tent, it was clear our first task was going to be to clean up some deadfall. No big deal as we had to cut up deadfall for firewood anyway.

With two saws and one axe the four of us are able to cut up and stack the major offenders in record time, not only clearing room for our tents, but also providing enough brush and firewood to easily last the night.

Camp set up is one of my two favorite things to do while camping. Winter camp set up is no different than any other time of year. Find a flat spot, pop up the tent, and lay out your bedding and let it fluff up. With little to no snow in the forecast, a tarp was not required to stay dry, but I did bring one along for a wind break. Set up close to the fireplace is the logical spot as that is always the evening gathering place. The next hour is spent getting the fire prepared for my second favorite thing to do while camping, camp cooking!

It is tradition to eat steak on the first night of any camping trip. While warm summer temperatures only allow perishables for the first meals, cool winter days mean you can bring any amount of fresh food for as many days of a multiday trip as you like. I have tried many a cut of meat, but I am always the most pleased with a well portioned striploin over an open flame. I cook steak at home all the time and have never been able to make them as good as when I am camping. In fact, that goes for just about every meal I make when camping. Maybe it's the appetite developed from a hard day of travelling, or the use of different cooking methods. Whatever it is, camping meals always seem to be some of the best meals I ever eat. On the menu tonight; striploin grilled over hot coals, with a mix of sweet potato, onion, green pepper, mushroom, garlic, butter and some secret spices wrapped in tin foil and slow baked on the coals. Delicious!

If one really wants to find a drawback to winter camping, it's the long dark evenings. Unlike other times of year, with light almost until bedtime, there is not much to do in the dark cold winter evenings besides stare into the memorizing flames of the fire. But even that can get boring after a few hours, so winter camping usually means an early bedtime. On this particular night, 9:30 is bedtime. With the promise of gusty winds, we batten down the hatches and secure our gear before tucking in for the night.

We only brought one sleeping bag with a liner on this trip. Having used it before to -10c with no problems, I didn't see any reason it would not keep us warm. For this to work with two people, the bag is unzipped completely and used like a blanket. The inner liner creating a sheet to lay on. Under that, two insulated inflatable sleeping pads rated to R4.4, enough insulation to keep the cold ground from robbing our bodies of heat. With Bear curled up in a wool blanket at our feet, we would have plenty of warmth to last us through the night.

Even in the summer, it can be hard to pry yourself out of your cocoon of warmth to face a chilly morning. In the winter it takes much more willpower. Lucky for me, the sound of footprints crunching on cold snow means Robert has already gotten up and is getting the fire ready for morning coffee. A quick look around the tent, and it's evident we got more than gusty winds overnight. One look out the door confirms those suspicions. There is easily 8 inches of fresh power covering our campsite.

What does one cook for a camp breakfast? Is it really breakfast without bacon and eggs? This morning it is a medley of bacon and eggs, with leftover onion, mushroom, and garlic topped with shredded cheese and all mixed well. It doesn't look like much, but it sure is delicious. This particular mix I ended up recreating twice at home later, and it came out (almost) just as good. I have dubbed it the Cossaboom omelet. With breakfast down there is nothing left to do but pack up and head out.

Packing up camp can be a skill in itself. When you are at home, it's easy to neatly roll all your gear into its optimal shape to easily fit in your pack. One must be careful with this though, as out in the woods, particularly when the cold is nipping is your fingers, it can be difficult to repack gear so tight and neatly. Sometimes the only saving grace is some of that gear is now nicely packed away in your belly instead of your pack, making more room for a more hastily stuffed bag. Leave no trace is something we practice to the best of our ability. One more look around to make sure nothing is left behind means the campsite is ready to greet the next adventurer in the same condition or better than when we found it.

The walk back on the lake shows just how much snow fell on us overnight. What was only a dusting sixteen hours earlier, now means kicking through and breaking a trail.

There is just enough snow to make walking back through the woods to the truck a careful game of twister. Making each step a surprise as to what sort of uneven ground your feet are stepping on.

This was not my first time winter camping, but it was my first time camping in a snowstorm. And it was awesome! Despite being unsure about how the whole thing would play out, Melanie had a great first time as well.

No matter what you think you are capable of, I can tell you you're capable of more. Don't let the fear of being too cold, or unskilled deter you from experiencing something like this. Even if it's in the safety of your back yard, it is all about the experience. Trust me when I say, you can have fun in all type of conditions with all types of skill levels. Start small and work your way into the outdoors. We are not experts by any means, but by getting out there and doing it we continue to learn, and continue our Backcountry Evolution.